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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 8:47 pm Post subject: |
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Not sure quite yet what is in store for the stringers...
Just got her home this afternoon. The engine and transom assembly is out.
What a sight for me, a 3 yr old, a 6 and an 8 year old in there ripping stuff out.
The boys just got their own little tool boxes with the standard hammer, screwdrivers, etc so they needed to bring it all in the boat.
Pulled out 2 full trash cans (35 or so gallon size) of old wire, fuel hose, screws, nuts, etc. One of them weights a good 60 lbs.
Squirted some dwan in the bilge and let the boys go wild with the hose. Will finish stripping down and post a few pictures in the next few days.
Sole definately needs to come out. I'm thinking just up to the bulkhead, but not sure. Gotta wait and let the trash pickup handle this before adding much more to it.
Cheers!
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Mon Jul 26, 2010 9:40 pm Post subject: |
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Falstaff -
Just re-reading your thread. It's probably a long shot, but do you still have the 'helm' area from when you cut into the bahia mar cap?
It seems that when mine was repowered with the OMC a while back, they just cut this whole section out and put in a chunk of wood.
If you still have this little section of glass I'd be interested.
Let me know.
Ian. |
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Falstaff

Joined: 13 Jan 2009 Posts: 58 Location: Saint Petersburg, Florida
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:49 am Post subject: |
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Ian, I am afraid I no longer have the piece of fiberglass. I wish I had known, I would have cut it out. I do still have the stainless guage panel and the stainless tilt switch panel. They look like the ones zerocavity has on his b20 moppie (although not nicely polished)...
I think I still have some of the original Stuart Warner gauges too, but you can still get those I think
You are welcome to all of it if you are interested.
I don't think it would be too hard to carve a new dash out of 2lb foam to create a mold and glass over it. It was a pretty simple little trapezoid. In fact, you might be able to enhance the original dash to include some space for a chart plotter if originality wasn't a major issue. |
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Rocket
Joined: 05 Mar 2007 Posts: 211 Location: Vancouver, BC
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:53 am Post subject: |
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| Ian, What a fun thing to do with your boys. I pulled the sole on the Baron, then peeled the glass intact off the old, rotten plywood, cut and fit new plywood, then glassed the skin back on to the new plywood leaving me with the factory hatch lips and diamond pattern. I brought it out in three pieces, thinking about where the joints would be when re-installed and what would be covering the joint (a bench seat in the stern and a bulkhead in the bow in my case). |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Tue Jul 27, 2010 9:12 pm Post subject: |
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We are having fun. My 5 yr old colored a picture of the boat. Quite a likeness...
Here are some updated tear down pictures:
Transom clean of outdrive and accessories.
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:17 pm Post subject: |
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I bit of work this afternoon.
Pulled the fuel tank (already had been replaced with a plastic 29 gallon tank).
Degreased bilge under tank and engine area. Got the Zepp industrial purple from home depot. This is some wicked stuff!
Here are some pictures:
I also remove the helm seat. Fiberglass sole completely delaminated from plywood. Different method of bolt retention. It could have at least been stainless.
Look at the stringer in there!
More to come!
Ian. |
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WherezErnie?
Joined: 10 Aug 2009 Posts: 160 Location: Springfield, VA
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Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 9:56 pm Post subject: |
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Looks like another fun project, Ian! Where is your 25?? Are you going to work this one in your driveway?
If you have a little time before removing the sole I may be able to give you some pointers from my experience. I'm cutting the cap off Friday and then we are going to remove the enitre sole in one piece...or at least try real hard! Probably within the next month.
Cam |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Wed Jul 28, 2010 10:03 pm Post subject: |
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Engine stringers came out far too easy. Secondary bond appears to have been made with oil.
The crowbar that I used was complete overkill!
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 5:57 am Post subject: |
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25 is a few hundred miles away at my wifes parents. This one is close (in drive way) and available to play with.
I'm open to any suggestions on sole removal.
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Thu Jul 29, 2010 8:31 pm Post subject: |
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Not much done today. My middle son turned 6 today so I came home early and we saw "The last Airbender" in 3d. Not a bad little flick.
Adjusted the trailer to fit boat better. Moved rollers outboatd as far as they would go and the boat lowered about 8 inches. Interested in pulling again on the road. When I did this with my 25, it towed MUCH better.
I sanded the name off the transom. Stuck my finger in the bilge discharge which is the balsa part of the transom and she's mush, complete mush!
All hardware is off except the bowrail and windshield. The boys like sitting up there pretending we are on the water, so the rail will stay for a while.
I had a sample of the preform sent to me with the 26 degree angle on it. Looks like it will work great.
Need to get official quote.
Question for those that have been here. It looks like the height from hull to cockpit sole at the transom is 13" and about 14" at the cabin bulkhead.
What height have you rebuilt the stringer to? Did you do lower towards the transom?
Does anyone happen to know how much much the sole at the transom is lower than the sole at cabin bulkhead at rest in water? Assume that the chine is just fissing the water. Do you think there is a rise of an inch?
I'll need to study some pictures to try and guess at it.
Ian. |
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John S.
Joined: 06 Apr 2007 Posts: 245 Location: Georgian Bay
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 9:24 am Post subject: |
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Ian,
ARe you thinking of reconfiguring to a mid engine ?
Don't know that you could jackshaft either of the 383's though.
Cheers, |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 10:44 am Post subject: |
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John - no jack shaft for this. With the V6, very little engine sticks out from under the rear deck.
Funny... my wife was reading while I was posting last night and said that I shouldn't be sticking my finger in anyone's transom
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Fri Jul 30, 2010 8:56 pm Post subject: |
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Got the skillsaw out this evening.
Rear section of sole came up without any of the wood core attached.
Underside of the sole will require little grinding to prep for new core.
This is a section of the plywood core that is standing on end on the driveway. I took this picture because it had only been there a few minutes and the water started seeping from the wood.
Inner skin of plywood stringer completly delaminated.
Foam mostly out about 4 feet forward of the transom on the port side.
With as wet as everything was this whole progression only took about a few hours.
Ian. |
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ian_upton

Joined: 03 Mar 2007 Posts: 543 Location: Grand Blanc, Michigan
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Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 10:05 am Post subject: |
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Recently turned 6yr old's artistic rendering of the new 'play ground' in the driveway:
Ian. |
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Bill_C
Joined: 28 May 2010 Posts: 24
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Posted: Sat Jul 31, 2010 9:44 pm Post subject: Looks Good! ... also looks familiar! |
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Ian
Looks Good! ... also looks familiar! ... good luck!
A few words...now that the deck and stingers are coming out...
0) keep boat on trailer! make sure it is aligned, straight and true
1) removing it (with stringers gone) may cause unwanted (and undetected) flexing
2) do not remove the center stringer ... it is the only one you have left.
3) plan to reinforce the section of deck between engine compartment, and fuel tank - just about (along the line) where you cut.
4) as you remove deck forward, make the cut about 2" aft of the main bulkhead.
5) think about re-coring deck with foam, and using 18" x 18" x 3/8 aluminum backing plates laminated under the form coring in the seat pedestal areas...
OK just my $0.02.....
Again she look great, and what a wonderful idea for you "heplp=out" crew!
Bill_C _________________ Bill_C
Annapolis, MD |
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